I forgot to mention in my last post, the most spectacular sighting of the trip. Andean Condors! I just couldn't believe it. I thought condors were super rare and never seen, but we saw 20 of them over two days! What luck and joy. I spent more time enjoying the birds than photographing them, but here is a short clip showing one soaring over the valley.
Wednesday, January 22, 2014
Pampa Linda & Mount Tronador
After a bumpy two hour bus ride on dirt roads, we reached the epicenter of Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, Pampa Linda. Little more than two campgrounds, a small restaurant and a hosteria, Pampa Linda is the main starting point for the backcountry, and climbing Mount Tronador from the Argentine side (there are three peaks, the Argentine, the Chilean, and a dual International peak on the extinct volcano). I loved the area immensely and now want to return to do the trek to summit Mt. Tronador, three days, crampons, ice axes, glaciers galore. The coolest thing about staying in the Valley was you could hear the thunder of glacial ice falling every so often, which gives Mount Tronador it's namesake.
The refugios are what make Nahuel Huapi really special. We spent three nights camping and one night in the refugio. Small, and built in beautiful locations, these mountain huts can fit up to 60 people a night, and feed even more. I had delicious gnocci, pizza, and even a small dulce dessert at the newest refugio on the block, Refugio Agostino Rocca, which overlooks a beautiful glacier with icy waterfalls, and am amazing Patagonian peaked landscape. We also day hiked up to Refugio Otto Meiling, the basecamp for the trekkers attempting to summit Mt Tronador.
The only downside to our trip were the tabanos. I would recommend going to Pampa Linda, but not until before or after the tabanos (aka BLOOD SUCKING HORSEFLIES) season. Highly unpleasant, 30% deet doesn't help, only swatting with fronds (aka tree branches) is a useful deterrent. Lesson learned the hard way!
Here are a ton of photos from the trip.
The refugios are what make Nahuel Huapi really special. We spent three nights camping and one night in the refugio. Small, and built in beautiful locations, these mountain huts can fit up to 60 people a night, and feed even more. I had delicious gnocci, pizza, and even a small dulce dessert at the newest refugio on the block, Refugio Agostino Rocca, which overlooks a beautiful glacier with icy waterfalls, and am amazing Patagonian peaked landscape. We also day hiked up to Refugio Otto Meiling, the basecamp for the trekkers attempting to summit Mt Tronador.
The only downside to our trip were the tabanos. I would recommend going to Pampa Linda, but not until before or after the tabanos (aka BLOOD SUCKING HORSEFLIES) season. Highly unpleasant, 30% deet doesn't help, only swatting with fronds (aka tree branches) is a useful deterrent. Lesson learned the hard way!
Here are a ton of photos from the trip.
| Rainbow on our bus ride to Pampa Linda |
| Mirador del Valle -Jon's favorite windy lookout |
| Our campsite for three nights |
| Starting our day hike to the Salta Gargante del Diablo |
| Black Glacier |
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| Jump into the Throat of the Devil Waterfall |
| This view doesn't show the crazy intense hike it took to get here |
| Pampa Linda |
| Cooking pasta over the fire |
| At the base of Mount Tronador |
| View from the interior of Refugio Otto Meiling |
| So happy! |
| Andean wildflowers |
| This tiny refugio can fit 60 people at night |
| Ecstatic to be walking through an alpine meadow, even though there is a horsefly attacking my left cheek |
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| Enjoying pizza in Refugio Agostino Rocca |
| Mmm Pizza |
| Glaciers, waterfalls oh my |
| Refugio Agostino Rocca |
| View of Lago Frias |
| I'm on cloud 9 |
| Happiness |
| I stopped counting at 30 waterfalls |
| There were a few bridges like these on our hike |
| Pristine wilderness |
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| Imagine hiking through miles of flower filled logs and trees |
| Caution |
| Or take a picture! |
| Made it! |
| After jumping in |
Bariloche
After a 20 hour bus ride (surprisingly comfortable with semi-reclining seats), we made it to Bariloche, capital of Argentine skiing, prime summer mountain spot for Argentines, and full of chocolate. Our first few days we stayed in a cabin, ate some delicious home cooked meals as well as some delicious meals out on the town. We also did several beautiful lazy day-hikes, almost all involving chairlifts up to an amazing 360 view.
| Acres of sunflower farms as we cross the Pampas on our bus ride |
| Our Bariloche cabin, table set for fresh pasta |
| A view from the first of several chair lifts |
| 3 cheers in a 360 rotating cafe |
| Bariloche is called the Lakes Region for a reason |
| Many consider Jauja to be the best ice cream in the country. I'm not one to disagree. |
| Mmm, about a dozen flavors of dulce de leche... |
| Giant chocolate logs! |
| The Patagonian Range is incredible |
| So happy to have a beautiful view of our destination, Mt. Tronadar |
| Views to remember! |
Hoy
I had a wonderful time in Recoleta this morning. Starting with te con leche y tres media lunas en La Biela. It was quite an affair!
Afterwards I perused the Buenos Aires Design Center and the National Museum of Fine Arts
Afterwards I perused the Buenos Aires Design Center and the National Museum of Fine Arts
Just a few blocks from where I am staying, was Evita's home in the city.
Ciao!
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